Comfortmaker mini split error code E6

Common causes

• Interconnect wires not landed in the same order at both ends (a swapped signal and neutral is the classic).
• A loose or backed-out terminal screw, or a strand of wire not fully under the screw.
• A damaged, spliced or undersized communication cable (it must be a continuous run of the correct gauge).
• No power at the outdoor unit: a tripped breaker, an open disconnect or a blown fuse.
• A failed outdoor control board or a blown board fuse, often after a lightning event or a power surge.

How to fix it yourself

Work through the checks below first; they resolve most cases. If they do not, the repair itself may need a technician.

1. Reset the system: switch the breaker (or the outdoor disconnect) off, wait a full five minutes so the boards fully discharge, then switch it back on and restart from the remote.
2. Confirm the outdoor unit actually has power. Check the breaker, the disconnect and any fuse in the disconnect box.
3. With power off, open the terminal covers on both units and check the interconnect wiring. Each numbered terminal must land on the same number at both ends, every strand must be under its screw, and there must be no splices, nicks or reversed conductors.
4. Make sure the communication wire is a solid, continuous run of the gauge the manual specifies. Extending it with a wire nut or using a lighter gauge is a frequent cause of intermittent errors.
5. If you own a multimeter and are comfortable using it, measure the supply voltage at the outdoor unit's L1 and L2 terminals with the unit running. A 230 V system should read roughly 208 to 253 VAC.
6. If the wiring checks out and the outdoor unit has power, look for LED fault lights on the outdoor control board (behind the service panel). A dark board with good supply voltage usually means a blown board fuse or a dead board.
7. On Gree-built units, also check the small jumper (see C5) and that the outdoor board's status LED is lit.

Switch off power at the breaker before opening either unit. Capacitors in the outdoor unit hold a charge for several minutes after power is cut.

When to call a technician

Call a technician if the wiring is verified correct and the outdoor unit has power but the code persists. Board diagnosis needs the service manual and a meter.

Which Comfortmaker units show E6

This page applies to Comfortmaker DLCSRA / DLCSRB / DLCLRA outdoor with DLFSHA / DLFSFA indoor (2015 and later) and DLC4 / DLF4 (2013 to 2015) units on the DLC4 / DLF4 series, 2013 to 2015 (Gree-built). Comfortmaker's own documentation lists E6 as "Communication error between indoor and outdoor units", the same definition used across the Gree platform it is built on. If your unit shows a code with a different shape (for example a four-character code, or a plain number), it is from a different table; use the lookup with your exact code.

Where Comfortmaker shows this code

DLC4 / DLF4 series, 2013 to 2015 (Gree-built): The code shows on the indoor unit's display in place of the temperature. If the display is off, press the Light button on the remote. Some models also count out the code as indicator blinks. E codes are system protections and faults, F codes are mostly sensor faults, H codes are outdoor and compressor protections, U codes are motor and valve faults, and P codes are power-supply faults.

Other Comfortmaker codes

Same part of the system as E6:

All Comfortmaker error codes

E6 on other brands

The same characters do not always mean the same thing. Check the brand on your unit.

• Pioneer E6 PFC module protection (outdoor display)
• Blueridge E6 Communication error between indoor and outdoor units
• Zone Air E6 Indoor unit DC fan fault
• Daikin E6 Compressor start failure
• Mitsubishi Electric E6 Communication error between indoor and outdoor units
• Trane E6 Indoor unit DC fan fault / Communication error between indoor and outdoor units