Mitsubishi Electric mini split error code P1

Common causes

• The indoor intake (room) air temperature thermistor has failed (they do drift and fail with age and heat cycling).
• Its plug has worked loose from the control board, or a pin has corroded.
• The sensor lead is chafed, pinched or chewed, giving an intermittent open or short.
• The control board's sensor input has failed (rare compared with the sensor itself).

How to fix it yourself

Work through the checks below first; they resolve most cases. If they do not, the repair itself may need a technician.

1. Reset the system: switch the breaker (or the outdoor disconnect) off, wait a full five minutes so the boards fully discharge, then switch it back on and restart from the remote.
2. If the code comes straight back after a reset, the fault is real and not a glitch.
3. With power off, locate the indoor intake (room) air temperature sensor behind the front panel near the air inlet. Follow its lead back to the board and reseat the plug firmly.
4. Inspect the lead for damage along its whole length, especially where it passes through the chassis.
5. If you have a multimeter, unplug the sensor and measure its resistance. A reading near zero ohms (short) or infinite (open) confirms a bad sensor. Most mini split thermistors read roughly 5 to 20 kΩ at room temperature, so a value in that range with a steady drift as you warm it in your hand means the sensor is fine and the board is the suspect.
6. Replacement thermistors are inexpensive and plug in. Match the part number from the parts list for your model.

Switch off power at the breaker before opening either unit. Capacitors in the outdoor unit hold a charge for several minutes after power is cut.

When to call a technician

Sensor swaps are a doable DIY job on most units. Call a technician if the sensor tests good and the code persists, because that points at the control board.

Which Mitsubishi Electric units show P1

This page applies to Mitsubishi Electric M-Series (MSZ), Mr. Slim (PKA/PCA), Hyper-Heating H2i and MXZ multi-zone units. Mitsubishi Electric's own documentation lists P1 as "Indoor intake (room) air temperature sensor fault (open or short circuit)", the same definition used across the Mitsubishi Electric it is built on. If your unit shows a code with a different shape (for example a four-character code, or a plain number), it is from a different table; use the lookup with your exact code.

Where Mitsubishi Electric shows this code

Wall units without a wired controller signal a fault by blinking the operation indicator lamp; the code itself shows on a wired controller (MHK/PAR series) or on the wireless remote after entering its check mode (see your manual). On the outdoor unit, the control board LEDs blink the same code. P codes are indoor-unit faults, E codes are communication faults, F codes are outdoor-unit faults and U codes are outdoor-unit and compressor faults.

Other Mitsubishi Electric codes

Same part of the system as P1:

All Mitsubishi Electric error codes

P1 on other brands

The same characters do not always mean the same thing. Check the brand on your unit.

• Pioneer P1 Over-voltage or under-voltage protection / High pressure protection (outdoor display)
• Blueridge P1 Over-voltage or under-voltage protection
• Zone Air P1 Over-voltage or under-voltage protection
• Trane P1 Over-voltage or under-voltage protection / Indoor intake (room) air temperature sensor fault (open or short circuit)